Howard Park Wines Mount Barker Riesling 2014: Review

Howard Park’s Mount Barker Riesling 2014 is the eighth release in the venerable WA winemaker’s Museum Series.

Since 2006, the Burch family has reserved a portion of its Howard Park Riesling for later release, giving wine lovers the opportunity to taste of rare back vintage wines without the difficulty of storing them for future enjoyment.

A comparative tasting of the 2014 ($41) next to the current release 2019 ($34) provides a brilliant showcase of riesling’s transformation in the cellar.

The 2019 pours medium straw in colour. The bouquet offers freshly squeezed lime, minerally freshness and some floral notes. The finish is very dry and long with lovely tingly, refreshing acidity.

The 2014 meanwhile has morphed into something very different. It’s pale yellow in colour, hinting at its gentle development. Bring the glass to your nose and there’s some nutty, toastiness and a whiff of kerosene amid the pear and lemon fruit characters. The acid is less pronounced, and a lovely savouriness has emerged. It’s a complex and beautiful wine to geek out over.

The label design for the 2014 museum release commemorates Howard Park’s inaugural 1986 Riesling with original artwork created by the late artist Denise Bowen, mother to Howard Park’s current chief winemaker Nic Bowen.

Samples supplied.

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